Travelers hit the road for a taste of southern Illinois

BY JULIE DEARDORFF

It's far easier to consume good wine in Illinois than produce it, but that hasn't deterred a hearty group of vintners who see opportunity in the rolling hills and loamy soil of the Shawnee National Forest.

Banding together to attract travelers and tourists, these entrepreneurs have created the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail, a network of five wineries located about 20 miles apart in the richly forested region of southern Illinois.If you time your visit right, you can make it a festive weekend. These celebrations go on all summer--next weekend, Sept. 4-5, is the annual Shawnee Hills Wine Trail Festival--and usually involve music and a staple food of the area: barbecue. There are festivals celebrating crawfish and barbecue, shrimp and barbecue, and crab and barbecue, just to name a few.

Granted, Illinois vineyards lack the cachet and growing conditions of California's Napa Valley or France's Bordeaux region. What they do offer is a unique experience: the chance to sample home-grown wines made from grapes like chambourcin or chardonel, and the opportunity to talk with the down-to-earth owners, who are often pouring the wine they've just made. They may even invite you on a personal tour of the grounds, which in some cases is also where they live.

Overall, Illinois has more than 40 grape-producing counties among its 102 counties. Most are in the southern third of the state, which is a long drive from Chicago--about 350 miles to the wine trail --but with a long three- or four-day weekend, can be worth the ride. Especially given that other types of trails have sprung up, including an orchard trail, an art trail and, of course, the natural trails of the spectacular 270,000-acre Shawnee National Forest.

And the tourists are coming. In 2002, the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail entertained an estimated 100,000 visitors and realized gross revenues of more than $2 million, according to the Illinois Grape and Wine Resources Council, recently disbanded as a result of state budget cuts.

It's a far cry from where Illinois wine production once was. Before Prohibition, Illinois was the fourth largest producer of grapes and supplied almost 25 percent of the wine consumed in the U.S.

In the last 50 years, Illinois--one of the top wine-consuming states in the nation--has fallen to the lowest 10 percent of the grape- and wine-producing states. But local producers feel there's great potential in small wineries and regional buying.

"We're in the heyday of the small winery," said George Majka, a co-owner of the Pomona Winery. "It's making a comeback."

We left Chicago on a Friday afternoon and stayed at an unusual house designed by architect Bruce Goff, called the Duncan/Etzkorn-Bruce Goff Castle Dwelling, which has been turned into a small bed-and-breakfast. The three-towered stone building, full of curves, arches and spiral staircases, was nestled deep within the Shawnee near Cobden and designed to melt into its natural surroundings. I felt a bit vulnerable; the house feels like it's inviting the outdoor elements inside. It's isolated, the bedroom doors have no locks, and there are no people for miles. But while not cushy, it was comfortable in a rustic, natural kind of way.

Owner Glen Etzkorn, who is happy to provide the social context of his Goff building, an inhabitable museum, pointed out that a home without many squares isn't for everyone. "But I say evil lies in those corners," he told my husband and me with a slight smile.

After breakfast with Etzkorn--he'll give you full access to the kitchen or prepare food for you--we launched our self-guided wine trail tour with coffee at the Yellowmoon Cafe in Cobden on what turned out to be a gloomy, rainy Saturday. While it's possible to start the trail anywhere, we plunged into the middle with the Alto Vineyards in Alto Pass, the place where it all began.

It was retired Southern Illinois University professor Guy Renzaglia who established the area's first winery and subsequently envisioned a southern Illinois wine trail, despite a myriad of obstacles, including the "dry" village of Alto Pass (which has since granted liquor licenses to the wineries), little experience and difficult growing conditions. Nevertheless, Renzaglia, the former director at the Rehabilitation Institute at SIU, established Alto Vineyards in 1984, planting five acres of then unheard-of grape varieties--chancellor, chambourcin, vidal and villard blanc. The French-American hybrid grapes are now widely accepted by Midwestern wine drinkers.

Today, Alto Vineyards, which inspired the other wineries in the region to open, is the third largest winery in the state (behind Lynfred Winery in Roselle and Galena Cellars). Last year the company hit a milestone, breaking $1 million in sales, according to business manager Leon Dangbar. And in May, a 2001 chambourcin from Alto Vineyards, a dry red wine, was named "Best in Show" at the seventh annual Illinois State Fair Commercial Wine Judging contest. It beat out 282 other Illinois wines and, thankfully, was one we purchased.

"If we can get them in here, we have them believing in Illinois wines," said Dangbar, adding that wine snobs don't often pass through the tasting area and gift shop.

When it's not pouring rain, visitors can wander through the 10-acre vineyard or bring food and settle in for a picnic. The Yellowmoon Cafe and some bed-and-breakfasts will pack a wine-tasting lunch upon request. Some of the wineries, including Alto, have small gift shops.

The Von Jakob Vineyard in Pomona, which features a Honey Blush wine and was started by a local optometrist, was next on our list. But since it was closed for a wedding, we continued down the road to the Pomona Winery, which specializes in fruit wines, largely from local orchards.

Owners Majka and Jane Payne have at least nine premium wines that range from semi-dry Jonathan Oak-Age Reserve to three fruity dessert wines made from southern Illinois peaches, blueberries and strawberries. They love to experiment with fruits other than grapes, and allowed us to sample a tasty batch of black currant and apple wine they'd just crafted.

Majka and Payne, former building contractors, hope to get the Shawnee Hills area recognized as a geographic region. "We want to be able to put on a label like Napa Valley," said Majka. "There's a certain taste of a region you pick up when it's from the Shawnee Hills."

Finally, running out of time--the wineries close at 5 p.m.--we hit Inheritance Valley in Cobden, the new kid on the block and just down the road from Alto Vineyards. Owner Tim Waller once sold grapes to Alto, before deciding to make his own wine. Standing in a tiny, newly converted garage, where he once fixed tractors, we sampled his spirits. "We're small and dirt simple," he said. "Since I'm new, I did research on new yeasts. That's why mine are different flavors. A common comment is that my wines taste clean and don't pick up earthy tones."

We missed one of the wineries on the official trail--Owl Creek Vineyard, in Cobden--and one that has recently dropped off, Winghill Vineyard and Winery in Cobden. But we'd had our fill, so to speak, and managed to purchase far too many bottles.

Besides, the wine trail is located near so many outdoor activities that it's a crime to pass up wonders like the Little Grand Canyon, Giant City State Park or the Shawnee National Forest. On Sunday, we ate breakfast at the Giant City State Park Lodge and hiked through some trails, frustrated at how little time was remaining. These natural gems, often overlooked by their northern Illinois neighbors, deserve at least a week-long getaway of their own.

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IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE

Carbondale is 330 miles from Chicago, and the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail starts about 15 miles south of there. From Chicago, we took Interstate Highway 57 south to Illinois Highway 13 west into Carbondale. From Carbondale we took Illinois Highway 127 south to Cobden.

Amtrak serves Carbondale, but you'll still have to rent a car. Trains leave Chicago at 4:05 p.m. and arrive in Carbondale at 9:35 p.m. Another option is an 8 p.m. train leaving Chicago that arrives at 1:21 a.m. On the return, trains leave Carbondale at 4:05 p.m. and arrive in Chicago at 9:35 p.m.

LODGING

Looking for alternative lodging, we found it at the Duncan/Etzkorn-Bruce Goff Castle Dwelling (2375 Wing Hill Rd., Cobden; 618-893-4716; www.brucegoff-castle-bandb.com). Don't lose the address; there are no signs, and the house is located off a private road, nearly a mile back inside the Shawnee National Forest. It's possible to rent the whole place. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday, use of one bedroom is $135. Two bedrooms costs $230 while additional use of the upstairs central tower bedroom will run up to $330. Rates are cheaper during the week, and return guests might get discounts. Payment is preferred seven days in advance. Goff does not accept credit cards.

We wanted to try the Giant City Lodge (460 Giant City Lodge Rd., Makanda; 618-457-4921; www.giantcitylodge.com), but it sells out pretty quickly. Located in southern Illinois' Shawnee National Forest, about 10 miles from Carbondale, Giant City State Park is surrounded by enormous sandstone bluffs and oak-hickory woodlands. Lodging choices include a one-room Historic Cabin for two adults ($60 per night), two-room Prairie Duplex ($70) and Bluff Cabins ($105), which have the most scenic views. The main lodge, which contains many of the original oak furnishings and a massive stone fireplace, is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Closed from mid-December to the first weekend in February every year.

The Shawnee Hills Bed & Breakfast (290 Water Valley Rd., Cobden; 618-893-2211; www.shawneehillbb.com) had rooms ranging from the $60 Victorian and Country Suite (excluding breakfast) to $150 in the Log Cabin Room, which comes with a full meal on antique dishes.

DINING

We heard people raving about the 17th Street Bar and Grill (32 N. 17th St., Murphysboro; 618-684-3722) at one of the wineries and had to check it out. Barbecue is the featured attraction, cooked slowly over an applewood fire. A full slab of baby back ribs will cost $18.99, while a half slab is $13.99. Burgers and sandwiches: $5.99-$7.99. They serve local wines from Alto and Von Jakob. Open 10 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Though it offered a limited menu for vegetarians, it nicely captured the atmosphere and flavor of a popular local haunt.

On Sundays, locals flock to The Bald Knob dining room (618-457-4921) at the Giant City Lodge for an all-you-can-eat fried chicken dinner ($8.95), served family style, 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Hours: 8 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday.

The Yellowmoon Cafe (110 N. Front St., Cobden; 618-893-3233; www.yellowmooncafe.com) is a sandwich shop that sells local wines, coffees, teas and ice cream, and features local music in the evening. Sandwiches: $4.75-$5.25. A wine trail lunch box ($8.50) includes a sandwich, side, bottle of water and utensils. A wine trail appetizer box ($8.50) includes assorted cheeses, French bread, olives, fresh fruit and bottled water for two.

For natural and organic food, stop in Carbondale at the Neighborhood Co-op (1815 W. Main St., 618-529-3533) on your way to the wine trail. Open 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday-Friday and 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday.

ATTRACTIONS

Giant City State Park (www.dnr.state.il.us/lands/Landmgt/PARKS/R5/GC.htm) is a place where you could quite possibly spend the entire weekend. The park is nestled within the Shawnee National Forest. The park covers 4,000 acres and offers hiking, boating, fishing, trail riding, camping and rock climbing. The lodge also has an outdoor swimming pool, children's pool, gift shop and cocktail lounge. Horseback riding is available May-November.

Shawnee National Forest (www.fs.fed.us/r9/shawnee). Inside the sprawling 270,000-acre Shawnee you'll find treasures like the River to River/American Discovery Trial, a 146-mile trail from Battery Rock on the Ohio River to Grand Tower on the Mississippi. The Shawnee is full of lakes, state parks and about two dozen recreation areas. The Shawnee also has seven federally designated wilderness areas where motorized vehicles are not allowed, offering more solitude.

WINERIES

Maps of the wine trail are available at local tourism bureaus or at shawneewinetrail.com

Alto Vineyards/Winery (Illinois Highway 127, Alto Pass, 618- 893-4898; www.altovineyards.net) is one of the largest commercial vineyards in the state and the first in the region. Alto Pass is located in the heart of the Shawnee National Forest. Hours: 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Saturday, noon-5 p.m. Sunday.

Pomona Winery (2865 Hickory Ridge Rd., Pomona; 618-893-2623, www.pomonawinery.com) specializes in fruit wines. Hours: 10 a.m. --5 p.m. Monday-Saturday, noon-5 p.m. Sunday.

Inheritance Valley Vineyards (5490 Illinois Highway 127 N, Cobden; 618-893-6141; www.inheritancevalley.com) began producing commercial wines during the 2002 harvest and opened for sales in 2003. Hours: April-December, noon-5 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday; January-March, noon-5 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.

Von Jakob Vineyard, Ltd. (1309 Sadler Rd., Pomona; 618-893-4500; www.vonjakobvineyard.com) produced the first white port in the state. You can bring a picnic lunch or they will provide one for you with reservations. The grounds include a wine-tasting room, atrium with fireplace and a partially covered deck. Hours: 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily, except noon-5 p.m. on Sunday.

Owl Creek Vineyard Inc. (2655 Water Valley Rd., Cobden; 618-893-2557; www.owlcreekvineyard.com) was founded in 1995 and produces wines that range from dry barrel-aged red to late harvest dessert wine. Wine can be tasted in the vineyard or in the winery's three-story deck. Don't miss the owls, Zen and Geist. Hours: May-December, noon-5 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday; January-April, noon-5 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.

INFORMATION

Southernmost Illinois Convention and Tourism Bureau, 618-833-9928; www.southernmostillinois.com

Shawnee Hills Wine Trail, shawneewinetrail.com

Carbondale Convention and Tourism Bureau, 618-529-4451 or 800-526-1500, www.cctb.org

Southern Illinois Tourism Development Office 618-998-9397, www.adventureillinois.com

-- J.D.